La Leona Waterfall: Canyon Hike, Swim & Liberia Lunch

4.92

(144 reviews)

What’s the experience like?

We started out near Liberia, bouncing along in the van with our guide Marco pointing out random trees—he said one was called “the tourist tree” because its bark peels like sunburn. I laughed harder than I should’ve. The drive wasn’t long but it felt like we were leaving regular roads behind. Once we got out, the air was thick and green-smelling, if that makes sense. Shoes on, water bottles clinking, we headed into the canyon for the La Leona waterfall hike.

The path isn’t flat—sometimes you’re scrambling over volcanic rocks that are weirdly smooth under your hands, sometimes wading through chilly water that wakes you up fast. Marco kept checking on everyone (there were a couple of older folks who kept pace just fine). At one point he showed us a spot where the river turns this wild sky blue—he said it’s from minerals in the volcanic rock. It looked fake but it wasn’t. There was a cave section too; echoey and cool inside, with everyone’s voices bouncing around until we all went quiet for a second just listening to the water outside.

I’ll admit I hesitated before swimming—the current looked stronger than it felt once I was in. The waterfall itself is tucked between high canyon walls so you hear it before you see it, kind of muffled then suddenly loud. There’s spray everywhere and you can taste stone in the air (or maybe that was just me). We took photos but honestly none of them really show what it feels like to be there. Afterward my legs were tired but in a good way.

Back in Liberia, Marco suggested a soda for lunch (not included), so we sat sticky and happy eating casado while trucks rumbled past outside. Someone tried to order in Spanish and got gently corrected by the waitress—everyone laughed about it for too long. I still think about that blue water sometimes when I’m stuck at my desk.