Ninh Binh Day Trip: Bai Dinh Pagoda, Trang An Boat & Mua Cave Hike

4.59

(145 reviews)

What’s the experience like?

We rolled out of the Hanoi Old Quarter just as the city was waking up—mopeds buzzing past, someone selling banh mi on a corner—and I tried not to spill my coffee on the minivan seat. Our guide, Minh, had this gentle way of explaining things, like when we pulled up at Bai Dinh Pagoda and he pointed out the line of stone arhats—500 of them. The air smelled faintly of incense and something green I couldn’t name. I wandered for a while, trying to take it all in. Minh laughed when I tried to pronounce “La Han”—probably butchered it but he seemed amused.

After that, we drove further south into Ninh Binh province for the Trang An boat trip. I didn’t expect how quiet it would feel gliding between those limestone cliffs—the only sounds were our rower’s oar dipping into the water and some birds somewhere overhead. At one point we ducked into a cave so low I had to hunch down; cool stone almost brushing my hair. There was this moment when sunlight hit the river just right and everything went green-gold for a second. It felt like being inside a painting or maybe just very far from anywhere else.

Lunch was at a local spot (buffet style for us group folks), with crispy spring rolls and something with lemongrass that still lingers in my mind. Then came Mua Cave—the part I’d been dreading a little because 500 steps sounded like a lot after lunch. The climb is real (my legs reminded me) but reaching the top… well, you can see all across Tam Coc and Ngo Dong river winding through rice fields below. A couple next to me asked Minh where the dragon statue came from—he shrugged and said every village has its stories.

The ride back to Hanoi was quiet; everyone half-dozing or scrolling through photos. I kept thinking about that patch of sunlight on the water in Trang An—it’s funny what sticks with you after a day like this.