Seville: Triana Private Tapas Tour & Family Taverns

4.91

(363 reviews)

What’s the experience like?

I’ll admit, I thought I knew what tapas meant before this private Seville tapas tour in Triana — but turns out, I didn’t have a clue. We met our guide, Elena, just across the river where the tiles on the bridge caught that late afternoon light (she said it’s always like that here). First stop was this tiny bar that’s been around since 1913. The place smelled like vermouth and orange peel, and there were old men at the counter arguing about football. Elena ordered for us — cold anchovies with olive oil, some olives that tasted way saltier than back home, and a glass of something dark and bittersweet. I tried to say “salud” with my best accent; pretty sure I failed.

We wandered deeper into Triana after that, through narrow streets where people actually know each other — you could tell by how they waved or yelled from windows. At the freiduría, a father and son duo were frying fish in adobo right behind the counter. The air was thick with vinegar and fried batter (not complaining). Elena explained how this dish is tied to Seville’s April Fair — apparently everyone eats it then, even if they’re not hungry. I burned my tongue on the first bite but honestly didn’t care.

The third stop was louder — red wine cocktails on sticky tables, pork loin that tasted smoky and somehow sweet at once. The owner winked when he poured our drinks (I think he knew we were tourists but didn’t mind). By now we’d stopped caring about etiquette and just grabbed whatever plate came next. Last place was a third-generation spot with garlic shrimp sizzling in little clay dishes. There was a woman at the bar who told us her grandfather used to dance flamenco here “before tourists came.” That stuck with me more than any recipe.

I still think about that walk back over the river, full but not just from food. It felt like we’d borrowed someone else’s city for an afternoon — or maybe just found a corner of it most people miss.