Banff & Yoho: Grizzly Bear Refuge, Takakkaw Falls & Emerald Lake

4.64

(145 reviews)

What’s the experience like?

I was honestly a little nervous when we set out from Banff that morning—something about heading into grizzly country just does that to you. Our guide, Jamie, had this relaxed way of explaining things as we drove through Yoho, pointing out where the mountains cut sharp against the sky. The first stop was Takakkaw Falls (if the road’s open—Jamie said sometimes it’s not), and you can actually hear the water before you see it. There’s this cool spray in the air even from the parking lot, and I kept thinking how small we looked compared to all that roaring white water. I tried to take a photo but my lens fogged up instantly.

After that, we rolled on to Emerald Lake. The color really is weirdly green—almost fake-looking? But it isn’t. There were a few canoes out, some kids skipping stones near the edge. Jamie told us a bit about how glacial silt makes that color, but honestly I got distracted by a loon calling across the water. We didn’t stay long but I still think about that silence there, broken only by paddles and birds.

The main thing for me was meeting Boo at the Kicking Horse Grizzly Bear Refuge. You get up there on this open chairlift—my feet dangling over pine trees—and then suddenly you’re looking at this massive bear just doing his thing in his own patch of forest. The local staff talked about Boo like he was family; apparently he likes dandelions more than berries (who knew?). Watching him lumber around with those huge paws made me feel both lucky and kind of… respectful? Like we’re visitors here, not in charge. Lunch at the Skybridge spot (that bridge is high—my knees wobbled) was good too, though honestly I was still thinking about Boo most of the time.